Betis Church – The Sistine Chapel of Guagua Pampanga
I was a bit disappointed as I laid my eyes on the facade of the famed Betis Church of Guagua, Pampanga as I got off from my bike.
From my point of view, I told myself that this looks too modern. It is dubbed as the ‘Sistine Chapel of the Philippines’ so I was expecting something monumental, something impressive.
But the freshly painted facade in shades of peach seemed too simple and contemporary. As I see it, all Baroque churches should be unspoiled and are made of adobe stones, bricks or glued by egg yolks or mortar. But I was exceptionally wrong for thinking like that…
The Plot Twist
Betis Church is officially called as the Parish Church of St. James the Apostle, also known as St. James the Moor-Slayer. Adjacent to the left transept, there’s a life size image of the saint outside the church grounds.
The facade, albeit too simple, is adorned with a recessed niche with St. James on the pediment. The first two layers are designed with faux Corinthian pillars and rectangular windows. An octagonal four-storey belfry sits on the right side and the convent on the left.
Betis is known for being the masters of wood carvings, called as “Mandukits”. Indeed, these carvers are commissioned around the country, one good example are wooden brick molds and doors of the Tumauini Church in Isabela.
But as soon as I entered the church portals, all my doubts seemed to vanished slowly. The intricately carved wooden door, akin to ‘Gates of Paradise’ received me as if entering a world beyond ours.
My eyes adjusted from the intense light from the portico as I walked into the dimly lit sanctum. A few more steps inside and the great plot twist stood before me: the Renaissance counterpart of Philippine Churches.
Trompe l’oeil
Built during the 1660s under Father José de la Cruz, Betis Church was one of the few churches in the country with this kind of opulence in its interiors. Lo and behold, the ceiling.
Its ceiling and walls are painted with frescoes and Trompe l’oeil artworks originally done by Macario Ligon in 1939 and was restored by Victor Ramos during the 1970s. Moreover, there are paintings and murals of the Holy Family, selected Biblical scenes, Catholic saints and cherubs. Walls are laden with Corinthian columns and circular stained glass windows.
One small detail at a time, the church will overwhelm your senses. In addition, this church have thick wooden floors, and ornately carved retablos and pulpits.
The Baroque-inspired Betis Church is one of the 26 churches in the country that has been declared as National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum and the NCCA.
How To Get There
- Betis Church or more known as Parish Church of St. James the Apostle is located in Brgy. San Nicolas, Betis, Guagua, Pampanga
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- From San Fernando, Pampanga, the Church is 10.8kms passing through Jose Abad Santos Avenue until one reaches Guagua
Bisikleta Iglesia Pampanga Series
This adventure is a part of my bike ride last July 26, 2020 under the new normal. This covers my 58 kilometer trip to the heritage churches of Pampanga.
Bisikleta Iglesia | Betis Church: Inside the Sistine Chapel of Guagua, Pampanga
Updated January 09, 2021
