A Day in the Life of Butbut Kalinga Tribe | The People of the Mist
The Buscalan Kalinga Adventure Series Part III
A day in the life of the Butbut Kalinga tribe is even more extraordinary compared to our daily routines in the city. Come and join us in this adventure as we go around the tattoo village of Buscalan.
Signing-off
Apo Whang-od decided to call it a day at almost six in the evening.
I almost forgot to check out about how Gracia Palicas and Ilyang Wigan applies their tattoos. They are Apo Whang-od’s apprentices and also nieces that expressed enthusiasm in the art of Pambabatok.
We then went back to our room as dusk has started to even dim the surroundings, Moreover, the fog rolled in once more and the cold wind started humming in unprecedented rates of bliss and harmony.
The Tachok
From where we were staying, the sound of loud speakers suddenly boomed in all directions, a celebration or a birthday we thought.
We had our most awaited dinner at another homestay hosted by Ate Kib-nay. Around 9:00 in the evening we learned that what we are now hearing for more than an hour is no ordinary celebration but a pre-wedding celebration.
Everyone in the community even the tourists are required to attend the celebration. If you don’t participate, it is like disrespectful to their culture and tradition.
Local men of the Butbut Tribe entered the scene carrying gongs and started doing the Tachok , it is a traditional Kalinga festival dance that signifies happiness and victory.
They formed a line then a circle where they eventually tapped the gongs while going around dancing. Men were eventually joined by the women who went inside the circle with their arms spread wide, imitating the flight of a bird.
Then it was our turn, I refused but in the end joined the dance, and I must say that it was really fun!
The Tattoo
That night we also decided to have a tattoo from the young Mambabatoks in the area since they are readily available and eager to earn. One of my friends decided to have the snake skin pattern around her wrists, it means to be strong and cunning like a snake. It was intricate and painful at the same time.
Some of them had the Sun and the Moon applied at their backs which signifies that they are responsible for the start and end of each decision they make.
While I had the four arrowheads pointing to the right under Apo’s signature which means proper guidance and direction of their god, Kabunian. After the tattoo session, they applied coconut oil to keep away moisture from the skin.
It was a cold that night, the celebrations kept on rolling until six in the morning. The following day, Kalinga Coffee was up for grabs, I probably had more than three cups that morning ’cause it was that good.
Tattoo Proteges
Then I went with some of companions as early as 6:30 am to wait for their turn to have their tattoos with Gracia and Ilyang and specially Apo Whang-od.
The hut was full of tattoo hopefuls that morning. Then came eight in the morning, Ilyang Wigan came in first, a 19-year old bloodline successor of Apo who happens to be her niece who follows her footsteps. In fact it has been her routine right after graduating high school.
Following her 5 minutes later was Gracia Palicas, Apo’s 21-year old niece who has quite earned her reputation for her fine application of the batok. Nevertheless, continuing this tradition is still in an outright blur in the future as their mothers want them to still marry lowlanders.
Minutes later, Apo Whang-od arrived causing a stir a number of people lining up that morning including me who wants to see her the second time around.
She seems to be in a good mood that day and even had her make-up on partnered by her youthful smile. Apo then entertained some photos with the tourists and proceeded with her preparation of her Batok Tools.
Queues are notoriously long during weekends, but you have to be as patient as the Tattoo Artists. Please be sensitive and respect their customs and norms, as Apo Whang-od hates noise and rowdy scenes.
Also, she has bad temper and doesn’t like being hurried, sometimes she calls off the sessions. Back in the days, this elusive mambabatok, has to receive offerings first just to have her tattoo. If she doesn’t like you, then she doesn’t like you. End of story.
Learn more about how to have your tattoo, design, tips and more. (Read: Buscalan, Kalinga Budget Travel Guide)
The Terraces
I wondered aimlessly around the village with nowhere to go, with the hopes of meeting locals, exploring the terraces and drinking more coffee.
I never came empty handed. I walked along the terraces dotting with kids, then I met Hadasha and Iben, both around 7 years old.
They followed me all throughout the terraces and even went with me to the topmost layer that is almost half an hour hike from the village.
The view from the top was worth it, and they even took a photo of me ’cause they kept on looking at their images in my camera. Both kids were energetic so to return the favor I bought them sweets and snacks when we got back down to the village.
The wedding has officially started, a big pan full of Carabao meat is being prepared and cooked by the ladies while the gents prepared the pans and other provisions for the feast.
While in the basketball court opposite our accommodation, people have already gathered and some of their relatives are dancing Tachok, a Butbut Kalinga traditional dance.
The Experience
She never married and has no children, and the tradition should only be passed with their lineage. While most couples announce their love for each other with their matching rings, how will Apo tell of her own? It is said that a space in her left wrist is reserved for the person that she’s going to marry.
Her body is a canvass of complex patterns of stories that tells about culture, tradition, rite of passage and wisdom. Whang-od may be all over the internet, magazines and media outlets, but to me she is another grandma who longs for the attention of the children she never had.
Please do me a favor and if one day you come by Buscalan, respect the tradition, the people and bring her anything that can make her happy. (Anything with Coco Martin’s “Ang Probinsyano” memento will do!).
But what I implore is to have this sensibility and sensitivity to culture, and to respect the practitioners of the tradition, whether Apo Whang-od is in Buscalan or elsewhere. Respect is of utmost importance here. Why do people get tattoos from Whang-od? Because people buy the story behind the tattoos: the rarity of designs, the technique and the stature of Whang-od as the “last, oldest tattoo artist” ascribed by popular media. – Amores, October 2017
With all the hype and fad over a traditional tattoo, please bear in mind to apply tattoo according to their cultural traditions.
Also, with the influx of tourist and media attention, the village is under a cultural crisis. May Apo Whang-od live longer, she has imparted with me an indelible form and lasting legacy of a traditional Mambabatok.
What I experienced on my brief stay in this Butbut Kalinga Villaga is a plethora of cultural immersion that I will treasure for a lifetime.
Whoever goes back to earth first between us, I know we are both part of each other’s story. – Pinili, October 2015
Big thanks to Team Lakbay Ahon for arranging and organizing this two-day transit and to Ms. Ghie Maldeguia for turning this team of strangers into friends afterwards. #TeamDalandan
Updated December 05, 2017
