Glorifying the Antihero – Tirad Peak (1,388+) GDP, Ilocos Sur

Reading Time: 8 minutes

Tirad Peak in Tirad Pass is a place we all read from our Sibika at Kultura books way back from grade school . It was a place where General Gregorio Del Pilar took his last stand. I was actually excited to visit the infamous location where the Phillipine Battle of Thermophylae took place.

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Tirad Peak
Gregorio del Pilar, Ilocos Sur
Major jumpoff: Poblacion, Gregorio del Pilar
LLA: 1388 MASL
Days required / hours to summit: 2 days / 6-8 hours
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 5/9, Trail class 1-4, Historical trail
(www.pinoymountaineer.com)

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A.K.A. the Traitor’s Trail?

From Manila we took a six hour drive going to Gregorio Del Pilar in Ilocos Sur and arrived there around 04:30am. The road conditions are a bit manageable for vans, but jeeps are still the most viable option. We then started the hike at around 06:30am in Sitio Dapdappig. But contrary to the popular trail starting from the Tirad Pass Shrine, we went to an alternate shortcut trail for this day hike which was around 4 kilometers.

This shorter trail does not have any water source so we filled our bottles from the starting point. It was actually a straightforward trail that ascends quite gradually through the slopes of the mountain. We started from a forested route with some rocky outcrops eventually leading into a dried riverbed trail.

Two and a half hours later, we emerged from the grasslands and finally arrived at the base of the rocky monolith. The morning light failed to make its way through the clouds this time. Thick blankets of fog crawled and obscured the rocky peak; somber morning indeed.

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Tirad Peak

At the base of the monolith, our guides were the first one to climb halfway to the peak, so they will signal us once the clouds wear off. It was around 10:00am when we decided to follow suit – ropes were present to assist us in scaling the loose soil trail leading to the monolith.

But after an hour of waiting near the peak, the weather never got better and all we had were partial views of what lies down there. Adding a little bit of dismay with the climb was the fact that the ropes leading to the very summit of Tirad Peak was not there. The summit was inaccessible that day. The ropes were used to lift the body of a man who fell to his death in the ravine a year ago.

We then descended down to the Lonely Trail leading to the Tirad Pass Shrine to complete the circuit. The trail was actually longer by 2 kilometers as compared to the shortcut trail but was fairly easier to manage. Most of the trail was unremarkable and it traces the footsteps of Januario Galut. He was the traitor who led the Americans to another trail where the escaping Philippine Army took shelter. Along the Lonely Trail, the Americans got a close head shot that lead to the death of the boy general.

I can compare it to Tarak Ridge’s trail wherein it passes along the mountain side. This one has several streams to cross before arriving at the hut just beside where General Del Pilar was slain in battle.

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Tirad Pass Shrine

Then some 200 meters away from the hut, the Tirad Pass Shrine stood. The shrine features a sculpture of the valiant boy general mounted on his horse. The campsite itself was scenic, large huts good for an overnight camp was built for hikers spending the night. It faces the west that offers grand vistas of the plains of Ilocos Sur and the West Philippine Sea.

Then I eventually realized that this location was pretty strategic point during General Del Pilar’s last stand. The old Spanish trail snakes through the mountain side, at times with switchbacks and hairpin curves, before reaching their location.

It was once used as a gateway to the Cordilleras and was paved with rocks by the Filipinos under Polo y’ Servicio.  Then at the top, you can easily spot anyone along the trail.

We got back at the trailhead at around 03:00pm, completing the day hike in eight hours.

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Reflection: Glorifying the Antiheroes

History books aside, reliving the anti-hero Goyo’s final moments, even in the movie adaptation, was a total disappointment. With heroism painted in “making a difference” and amazing feats, the infamous battle was nothing short of careless mistakes, self indulgent characters and cowardly acts. I was frustrated.

But I realized that this frustration was only because it reflects how things actually happen in real life. It seems to catch up with our country’s current reality. Ages ago was not actually even different from now. We actually appreciate the brokenness because we can relate to it and the people around us, even in our leaders. Antiheroes are a mixture of the good and the bad, albeit all those qualities, it makes them more relatable, more human.

Characters who shine as morally pure and upright don’t ring true to us anymore, because it’s not who we see around us in the world. – Jonathan Michael

Our hike along the infamous trails of Tirad Pass and Peak was an eye opener. I was able to see more than what was taught to us way back in grade school. The events that transpired in this exact place was indeed in darker shades of gray, because it does not only question what really happened in there but on how it reflects with the heroes of the past and today, or if there’s even such a kind of person now.

The reality behind the facade of being a hero is that it is not measured with big heroic acts or gruesome deaths as portrayed in our history books. Nowadays, being a hero may not even be recognized at all.

The ones we should recognize are the ones who act and do – the ones who created ripples of change, made positive impacts and positive influence that affected a generation.

I think we are all antiheroes, because we can make a difference if we want to.

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How To Get There

• From Manila take any bus bound for Candon City, Vigan City or Laoag. (Travel time 5-6 hours, fare 600.00-700.00php)
• At Candon City, rent a monster jeepney bound for Gregorio Del Pilar, Ilocos Sur. (Travel time 2-3hours)
• At GDP, register at the Municipal Office and secure guides
• This is an organized event by Sir Froilan Vega of Bundokerong Pandak, you can contact him through his Facebook page for more info on this hike
  • Mandatory Fees:
    • Registration Fee: 30.00php/pax
    • Guide Fee: 2500.00php/ 5 pax

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Itinerary and Expenses

Tirad Peak Dayhike
(Itinerary from Sir Lorenz Belledo of www.thenovicetrekker.blogspot.com)

08:55PM – Departure from Cubao
02:04AM – Arrival at Candon City, Ilocos Sur, Breakfast
04:30AM – Arrival at GDP Poblacion
06:20AM – Proceed to the jump-off
06:32AM – Start the hike
06:41AM – Arrival at Brgy. Dapdappig, orientation with guides, last waster source
06:46AM – Resume
07:12AM – Arrival at the waiting shed, rest, regroup
07:22AM – Resume hike
08:06AM – Quick breather after a steep ascent
09:06AM – Arrival at the base of Tirad Peak, rest, regroup
09:40AM – Final assault to the peak, wait for clearing
10:49AM – Start descent from the peak, wait at the base, still no clearing!
11:24AM – Start descent to the Tirad Pass Shrine via the Historical Trail
12:33AM – Arrival at Sniper’s Knoll, rest, lunch, pictures, regroup
01:19PM – Resume hike to Tirad Pass
01:25PM – Arrival at Tirad Pass Shrine, rest, pictures
01:55PM – Resume descent back to the trailhead
02:35PM – Back at trailhead, rest, head back to Poblacion
03:11PM – Back at Poblacion, rest, wash/tidy up
04:15PM – Departure for Manila, dinner along the way
11:18PM – Back in Congressional Ave. Q.C.

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Extend Your Trip

• A Fortress Lost in Transition – Santa Maria Church, Ilocos Sur
• One With The Elements – Paragliding at NOAH, Ilocos Sur
• Ilocos Sur | Bessang Pass Natural Monument, Cervantes

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Already visited Tirad Pass and Peak? Share it or ask us anything in the comments section below!

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Glorifying the Anti-Hero – Tirad Peak (1,388+) GDP, Ilocos Sur

Updated February 25, 2020

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