ISABELA | Tumauini Church
Tumauini, Isabela: It might be one of the most overlooked tourist destinations in the island of Luzon, but Isabela still holds untouched gems that only the brave of hearts will pursue to rediscover (What’s up, coastal towns of Isabela?) .
But if short on time and still trying to know the second largest province in the country then I suggest to pay homage to the historic churches of the Rice and Corn Granary of the Philippines. Follow Transit Pinas on his Isabela day trip as part of his three-day Biyaheng Norte solo backpacking adventure.
Tumauini Church
All drenched in sweat as the sweltering heat of the Cagayan Valley became evident that afternoon. I flagged a UV Express Van again at the junction of Marana and the main highway after a quick visit inside Fuyot Springs National Park in Ilagan City.
I was planning to visit my second to the last destination in Isabela which is the Tumauini Church. Luckily a van stopped, some forty-five minutes later I arrived at a Puregold in Tumauini.
I headed towards the Municipal Hall a few blocks away inside a seemingly deserted street. The noon time heat was unbearable as the minute passes by. Soon enough, the circular bell tower of St. Matthias Church came into view.
The church was designed in Brick Baroque style of architecture, specifically of Late Baroque or Early Rococo. It was declared as UNESCO World Heritage Site last 2006 as an extension, in addition to the four UNESCO Inscribed Baroque Churches of the Philippines. Additionally, it is also listed as a National Cultural Treasure and a National Historical Landmark.
The Devil in the Details
I am standing at perhaps, the most artistic brick church in the Philippines.
The church first was built from light materials in 1707 and was rebuilt in its fiery red brick structure 21 years after it started in 1784. Upon close inspection, I can’t help but admire the way everything was put together.
What lacked in scale as opposed to the other baroque churches, it makes up with how the rich ornamentation were intricate and carefully placed together.
Indeed, the devil will always be in the details.
The Cake Tower
The Cagayan Style facade is made up also of bricks. Moreover, bricks are the ones used since Adobe and other quality stones are not available in the area.
The artisans from Betis, Pampanga are the ones who were hired to craft the wooden mouldings for the clay inset of the bricks. Each of the bricks if one will closely inspect is customized to fit in a certain portion of the wall. The numbers and dates can be clearly seen, how painstakingly placed huh?
The pediment is curved on top and is complemented by a circular window which was recently renovated.
The admired and tiered cylindrical bell tower is the only of its kind on the country. Also, it was built in the Spanish colonial era of 1805. Apart from this, it is adorned with garland like flowers draped around the cake like structure.
Standing proud as one of Isabela’s pride and glory. The confectionery like designs such as flowers, leaves, ovules and sunbursts, just like in the facade was also carefully placed together.
Takeaways
At first glance it looks nothing short of extraordinary, but if you just closely look upon it, one will realize how it was built carefully. In fact, the white plaster finish were all original.
Due to the passage of time and pillage of other elements, it got eroded. Moreover, it revealed the embedded red bricks that is now contrasting wildly up to this day.
I may not be able to enter the church but it is said that it is the only intact church interior in the province to date.
The churches in the area are all unique in its own way. Although their precarious and fragile existence is a threat to the cultural patrimony of the country.
Furthermore, it is also paramount that we know of their existence since awareness is one of the keys to preservation and protection.
How to Get There
- The town of Tumauini, 460+ kilometers north of Manila, is located in the province of Isabela, between Ilagan City and the town of Cabagan (Eponymous with the noodle dish named after it, Pancit Cabagan)
- From Manila, take any bus bound for Tuguegarao via Victory Liner or Five Star Bus. (Travel time: 8-9hrs depending on traffic conditions, Fare: 650++ php airconditioned bus)
- If coming from Tuguegarao, take any bus bound for Manila or UV Express Vans bound for Ilagan City and alight at Puregold Tumauini
- If coming from Cordon or Santiago City, its is just a town away and take any van bound for Tuguegarao City, and alight at Puregold Tumauini
- From Puregold Tumauini ask the locals where the church or the adjacent Municipal Hall is located, it is two blocks away from the main highway
- Nearest airport is in Cauayan City, flight takes 1hr and 10mins, Cebu Pacific flies regularly to Cauayan City, then take another van bound for Tumauini which will take you atleast an hour, fare range is around 50php+
2018 Biyaheng Norte Solo Backpacking Adventure – Isabela
