An Eluded Paradise – Malamawi White Beach

March 21, 2020July 29, 2021 Rex Lim Lim TRAVEL

Reading Time: 7 minutes

If the paradise like Malamawi Beach is not enough, what’s stopping you from visiting Basilan?

The island of Basilan in Mindanao for the longest time has gained the notoriety of being one of the most dangerous provinces in the country long ago. Talk of plans going to Basilan and the immediate reply would be to take care and be safe.

In this Braving Basilan series, let me take you on a journey of unveiling what lies beyond the stigma, behind the rife acts of rebellion , and what is in store for those who takes the leap of faith in setting foot at the infamous province they call, Basilan.

Papet Masters

Table of Contents

“Welcome to Basilan” an overhead signboard in black and gold was noticeable from afar. I veered towards the exit as we queued up together with some Muslim men in their skullcaps.

Some aunties wearing their hijabs were carrying their little children out of the passenger vessel. From afar, I saw some of their kin waiting for them patiently. It was a tense feeling as we set foot in Isabela City.

In a few minutes, all of the passengers have gone their way out of the vessel.

I realized we are the only ones different from the rest – tourists. In a place like this, I am excited yet with reservations. Well, it is hard to erase the news we’ve read from long ago. I was taken aback by uniformed men with their assault rifles across their chests. But all fear and anxiety seemed to disappear as we saw them again almost everywhere. We were safe.

There’s no going back, I told myself. We asked the security personnel at the port gate where the boats going to Malamawi Island is. He pointed out into the direction of a busy talipapa (market). The early morning catch was sold for a relatively cheap price.

The outrigger boats were docked near the stone step of the waiting shed terminal. We then paid 5php for a trip going to the island and silently waited for other passengers to fill in the boat.

Speeding boats without outriggers which they call locally as “Papets” zoomed past us from time to time. They carry their early morning hauls or just crossing the little distance that separates Isabela City from the island. Hence, they seemed to be masters of their own craft.

I am also wondering how they were able to balance themselves aboard the vessel. As a result, they are Papet masters indeed.

Unspoiled, Eluded

The boat trip was fairly short. A few minutes later, the chartered single motorcycles with King and two more drivers arrived.

Life near the docking area is fairly simple, houses are plain and modern. In fact, there are food stalls selling peculiar dishes wrapped in blown up clear plastics and fried pica-picas. There’s also other simple yet new dishes that I have seen for the first time.

The ride to Brgy. Lukbuton took us fifteen minutes across vast coconut plantations and well paved roads. Hence, I can say that this is more than developed than most of the places I’ve been into.

At the backwoods of the island lies Malamawi White Beach. Moreover, the delicate turquoise waters and palm fringed coast will make you think otherwise that this is paradise indeed.

Serene and peaceful, eluded therefore unspoiled, as if nothing happened in the past. Our problems seem to disappear upon sight of the powdery white sand lining up the shore.

An I Love Malamawi signage stood under one of the Palm Tree. It has a colorful Vinta laid adjacent next to it.

The beach is now developed and asks for an entrance fee of 20php with free use of the rest rooms. Cottages made of thatched materials are for rent. Also, there are sequence numbers on the cottages with corresponding prices posted on each one.

One can also avail their rooms if planning to stay overnight. Just make sure to call them up to reserve a room prior to your visit.

Malamawi Beach is devoid of visitors, the sun pierced through the clouds that made the water and sand glitter. An is also ideal for kids since the waters near the shore is shallow.

Paradise Found

The concrete boardwalk from afar seemed to stretch far and is very inviting to stroll at.

I took the risk, and I was awarded as such. The impression of insurgents thriving inside this infamous province kept the visitors at bay.

But on the brighter side, the local media paints the province with looming fear of militants. This makes the visitors decide to put a big NOPE on visiting their unspoiled attractions. But contrary to that, our government is doing a good job that braving the island coasts is now becoming an easy task to do, but with reservations.

We left after spending almost two hours in Malamawi Beach and headed back to the Provincial Capitol for a courtesy call at the Governor’s Office….

How To Get There

From Manila, take any flights bound for Zamboanga City. Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific have several flights daily from Manila to Zamboanga.
From the Airport, one can opt to take the passenger jeepneys and ride the Canelar bound ones and alight at Plaza Pershing (8php) then just ask where the Zamboanga Port is.
Take the earliest fastcraft bound for Isabela City in Basilan, trip takes 45 minutes to an hour depending on the sea conditions. Check out the Basilan Travel Guide for the full details of the trips bound for the cities of Isabela and Lamitan. (150php)
From Isabela Port, transfer to the passenger outrigger boats adjacent to the port that will take you to Malamawi Island, trips takes 5 minutes. (5php)
- Alternately, you can rent a whole boat to take you to the other side for 100php, if you don’t want to wait for the boat to fill up.
From Malamawi Island, several habal-habal drivers waiting at the terminal can take you directly to Malamawi White Beach Resort in Brgy. Lukbuton, trip takes 15-20minutes. (50php/trip)
You can contact our habal driver Kuya King at 09550332899.
Pay the 20php entrance fee.
If staying overnight, it is important to reserve your room first prior to visiting as they only have limited rooms and cottages. You can contact them at 09974400765 or 09450628568
- Room Rates (inclusive of breakfast and use of amenities)
  - Deluxe Room (2pax) – 2000php
  - Mini Barkada Room (4pax) – 2500php
  - Barkada Room (10pax) – 4000php
- Cottage rental starts at 200php for day trips.
Buy food and refreshments before visiting.

Braving Basilan: This adventure series narrates what transpired during my day trip across the island of Basilan, as I set foot on my 55th province last August 20, 2018. The road not taken and an eluded paradise – this has been once home to a terrorist group and historically also the staging ground for Moro Raids in Zamboanga.

Giving it the notoriety as one the most dangerous provinces in the Philippines in the past. Follow me as I show you the other side of the beautiful province of Basilan!