Mt. Talinis (1,903+) Negros Oriental | Taking the Bull by the Horn

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DUMAGUETE CITY: Mt. Talinis, locally called the Cuernos de Negros, is arguably one of the toughest yet most rewarding hikes in the province of Negros Oriental.

Team Kalat (L-R): Clemuel, Fara, Tin, Rex

Join us in this adventure as we took the bull by the horns in this two-day climb inside the Horns of Negros.


TALINIS (APOLONG-BEDIAO TRAVERSE)
Valencia City and Dauin, Negros Oriental
Entry point: Brgy. Apolong, Valencia City
Exit point: Brgy. Bediao, Dauin
LLA: 1903 MASL
Days required / Hours to summit: 2-3 days / 10-11 hours
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 6/9, Trail class 2-4
Features: Lakes, waterfalls, mossy forest
www.pinoymountaineer.com

In this hike, I was using the new Merrell Moab 3. It proved its reputation as the Mother of All Boots because of its sturdy grip and waterproof feature. #letsgetaway
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Merrell Moab 3: All soaked up in mud in this 19.40 kilometer hike, but in terms of all-day comfort, traction, waterproofing, and cushioning – this hiking shoe did a great job!

Apolong Trail

Our group arrived a bit late in Dumaguete City from Manila and immediately transferred to our rented multicab that brought us to Brgy. Apolong in Valencia.

After meeting with our guide and some final preparations, we immediately started the hike. The trail was wide and had some houses for a few hundred meters. It was muddy and had numerous tree roots and rocks all throughout.

The ascent proved itself to be already punishing early on. Moreover, not getting enough rest prior to the hike, our bodies started to act otherwise. The Lubas Falls were visible along the trail as the thunderous roar of its cascade was already heard from where we took a break.

 

Around 4.5 kilometers from the Valencia jump-off point, we had our lunch at the lagoon where we also refilled our water bottles. Amidst the thick canopy of the wilderness, the lagoon was a welcome respite.

 


Twin Falls

What is unique about this trail is you will never be lost if you just follow the water pipes.

As we continued on, we arrived at the guard house area where the water pipes get their water supply. Guards here stay at the hut which also serves as a rest area for hikers. In addition, they stay here for fifteen days before switching duty with another guard.

Just around the bend, hopping over moss-covered rocks is the Twin Falls of Apolong. This cascade was worth the visit because of the cold water that beckons anyone for a quick dip.

Originally, the Twin Falls is made up of two equally beautiful cascades adjacent to each other. Consequently, after Typhoon Sendong battered the island, the other one was reduced into a small waterfall with its water trickling in small volumes at the side.


Kaipohan Sulfur Vents

With still a lot of distance and elevation to cover, we decided to camp at an exposed plateau they call the Rancho. At 6.8 kilometers and at an elevation of 1256 MASL, we laid out our tents and stuffed our bags inside.

A strange yet familiar smell blanketed the campsite as an afternoon gust blew from the other side of Rancho. Our guide, Kuya Chris then told us that it was the Kaipohan Sulfur Vents that is just 10 minutes away from where we were.

As we got closer to where the foul stench emanated, the surroundings slowly reek of death and oblivion.

What an odd spot once you enter the realm of Kaipohan Sulfur Vents. The river bed is stained in a yellow lifeless hue with bubbling brooks that belches Sulfur haze.

Moreover, in stark comparison to the thriving forest around the mountains, a large swath is littered with hundreds of stumps in what seems to be a death zone’s limbo. To add, it seems to be taken straight out of Dante Alighieri’s first level of hell.

We then returned back to camp and prepared a feast for a job well done. Eventually, we called it a night early.


Lake Nailig

The following morning, at around 04:00 am we soldiered on and slowly treaded the steep heavily forested incline that leads to Totoy Dalaga Peak.

Somewhere before the Maribuhok Tree covered peak, we passed by the area where a hiker was found dead a year ago probably due to hypothermia or hunger.

After a grueling four kilometers from the Rancho campsite, we finally arrived at the mystical Lake Nailig. Thick foliage surrounds this lake that looks eerie as the fog slowly creeps on its placid waters.

We then proceeded to close the gap that separated us from the summit of Mt. Talinis. Also, this final stretch is a heartstopper because of its 300+ meters worth of elevation gain over a very short distance.


Nakolon Peak

A little over two hours from the Rancho Campsite, we finally reached the famed Maribuhok Tree reaching out over the edge of Mt. Talinis’ Nakolon Peak (1,903 MASL).

Originally, the traditional summit of Mt. Talinis is a little over 1700 MASL facing Dumaguete City.

The “original” Mt. Talinis Summit at 1700 MASL. (Photo by Sir Chris Gonzalez)
The “original” Mt. Talinis summit at 1700 MASL as seen from Valencia. (Photo by Sir Chris Gonzalez)

But the Nakolon Peak or Talinis Dako, definitely, is a much more rewarding pursuit due to the unearthly views of Lake Nailig, the surrounding peaks of Cuernos de Negros, and the neighboring island of Cebu.

We were lucky enough to have a clearing of Lake Nailig as the fog rolled in and out that chilly morning.

 


Bediao Trail

The descent back to Lake Nailig Campsite was a breeze despite the sudden downpour. We then had breakfast for the champions which we prepared the night before to fuel us on the way down.

The terrain back to the Apolong-Bediao junction was punishing again as we donned our heavy backpacks. Moving from rock to rock along the banks of the tranquil lake, we already felt our aching calves.

To be honest, Mt. Talinis never disappointed us all throughout the hike, the points of interest kept on coming. A formidable roster of places presented themselves each step of the way which makes the mountain a favorite among the mountaineers of Visayas.

I got a little bit lost as we entered the torturous ascent up the Nagbalagbag Ridge and I ended up on the soft and bouncy soil of the now dried-up Lake Halawig that looks like a field of Reeds.


Lake Yagumyum

As I found my way back, an ancient forest filled with Maribuhok Trees revealed itself. Awkward gnarly branches reached out in all directions. The intertwined roots provoked us if we still have the energy left as we slowly clambered our way out of this obstacle route.

Nearly reaching kilometer 16, we were greeted by another primeval body of water called Lake Yagumyum. To add, another peak at 1700 MASL stands on the other side of its shores.

We finally set foot past lunchtime at the concrete road of Brgy. Bediao in the town of Dauin completing the 19-kilometer hike.

Mt. Talinis now reserves a special place in my heart as one of the most rewarding mountains that I will again visit if ever I have the chance. Albeit the trails got on my nerves and challenging all the same, the surprises and fulfillment along the way were too good not to be acknowledged.

AYAW YO! 😀


How to Get There
  • Talinis is located in the province of Negros Oriental.

  • The nearest airport hub is at the Sibulan Airport in Dumaguete City
  • Trails: There are several trails to choose from when climbing Mt. Talinis, but these two are the most commonly used trails by mountaineers:
    • Apolong Trail – this trail starts at the trailhead of Casaroro Falls in Brgy. Apolong in Valencia. Moreover, this trail is around 11 to 12 kilometers long from the jump-off (678 MASL) up to the summit of Nakolon Peak (1,903 MASL)
      • Incline – 1,425 meters from Valencia jump-off to Nakolon Peak
    • Bediao Trail – the traditional trail in accessing Mt. Talinis that starts in Brgy. Bediao in Dauin. This trail is around 7 to 8 kilometers long from the jump-off point (800 MASL) up to the summit of Nakolon Peak (1,903 MASL)

  • We did the overnight hike traverse from Apolong to Bediao. The total distance is 19.40 kilometers, with a total elevation gain of 1,703 meters
  • While 12 kilometers seems manageable over a 1,400-meter elevation gain, it did pose a challenge because of the jungle trail and our heavy packs

  • Talinis Fees and Permits as of August 2022:
    • Day Hike – 1500php per guide for 5 pax
    • Overnight Hike – 1000php per guide per day for a group of 5 pax
    • Valencia Hike Permit – 50php per pax
    • Dauin Hike Permit – 100php per pax
    • Porter Fee – 1000php per day for a maximum weight of 12 kilograms
  • Getting there: Our group rented a multi-cab that picked us up at the airport and vice versa. (4,500php for 4 pax)
  • Mountain Guide: You can contact Sir Chris Gonzalez to arrange your hike and permits

  • Swimming at the lakes is prohibited since the lakes also serve as the water source. It is advised to boil the water before drinking it.
  • Always practice LNT Principles at all times


Itinerary and Expenses

Day 01

0600   Flight to Negros Oriental
0800   Arrival at Sibulan Airport, Dumaguete City
1015   Km. 0 start trek 678 MASL Apolong, Valencia
1040   Km 1.4 Watersource 890 MASL
1130   Km 2.6 Rest Area, 1017 MASL
1300   Km 4.5 Lagoon, Lunch, 1163 MASL
1347   Km 5.3 Guard House, 1199 MASL
1400   Twin Falls
1420   Guard House
1445   Km 6.8 Rancho, 1256 MASL
1500   Visit Kaipohan Sulfur Vents
1600   Back at the campsite, prepare dinner
1800   Dinner, socials
2100   Lights off

Day 02

0300   Wake-up call, break camp, breakfast
0430   Start trek
0600   Km 10.2 Totoy Dalaga 1615 MASL
0645   Km 11.2 Lake Nailig Campsite 1585 MASL
0745   Km 12.4 Mt. Talinis Summit 1900 MASL
0900   Km 13 Lake Nailig Campsite, breakfast
1000   Start descent via Bediao Trail
1030   Nagbalagbag Ridge, Lake Halawig
1130   Km 15.7 Lake Yagumyum 1425MASL
1315   Km 19.3 Bediao Trail exit point 800 MASL
1500   Travel back to Dumaguete
1600   Dumaguete City, late lunch
1900   Flight back to Manila
2100   Arrival in Manila


Where to Stay
  • Asia Novo Boutique Hotel-Dumaguete, Dumaguete, Philippines

  • Go Hotels Dumaguete, Dumaguete, Philippines

  • Sierra Hotel, Dumaguete, Philippines

  • Check Inn Dumaguete, Dumaguete, Philippines

  • Golden Gate Suites, Dumaguete, Philippines


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Mt. Talinis (1,903+) Negros Oriental | Taking the Bull by the Horn
cropped-522efb28-762e-407f-bc82-82024fb54619.pngUpdated August 22, 2022