Taming the Land of the Howling Winds – Catanduanes
On our flight to Catanduanes, the plane shook uncontrollably “Ladies and Gentlemen, we’re experiencing some turbulence. Please return to your seats and fasten your seatbelts.” Then a sudden free fall followed…
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I was on a Cebu Pacific flight bound for Virac, the plane’s shaking like crazy, the cabin crew repeated this for about three times during the final descent. On the wake of typhoon Kammuri/ Tisoy, I scheduled my flight on the first week of December 2019. I still pursued visiting Catanduanes despite the challenge of reaching the island.
Isla de Cobos
Welcome to Catanduanes! The Happy Island, The Land of the Howling Winds, and many other monikers that the island has gained over time. This is an island of the coast of Bicol Region facing the Pacific and has been in the path of typhoons since time immemorial.
After my 2-day adventure here, I realized that it is not the battering rains that I should be worried about, but the whistling, buzzing sound in my ears the winds make all day long.
This island is still off the tourist radar than it really deserves. On the brighter side, because of having similar topography with Batanes and other far flung areas in the country, this island has also been relentlessly sculpted by the fury of nature, making the landscapes even more remarkable.
Off The Grid
The pastoral rolling hills seems like intentionally manicured lawns. They spread far and wide as it ends in sheer cliffs with protruding jagged rocks battered by the ocean waves that goes several meters high.
Catanduanes has every bit of almost isolated beaches and swimmable natural lagoons. Stunning ocean views waits anybody who braves the climb to the top of hills and lighthouses. Surfing has also been what the province is famous for due to its giant barrels on swell months.
Being off the grid, this island still has many secrets awaiting to be rediscovered by intrepid travelers.
March to August is the most ideal months to visit. Primary modes of transportation are vans, jeepneys and tricycles. But to navigate through narrow paths, I advise to rent motorbikes as the preferred mode of navigating through the island. Of course, you have to do it with the help of friendly local guides who knows the place better than anybody else.
Catanduanes, The Best
I traveled here solo, and only got a small sampling of what the Happy Island has to offer. I have to admit that the two days I spent here was too short. If you’re going to ask me, three to four days would suffice, but a week is the best.
Exploring the tamer side of the island, there’s the municipalities of Virac, San Andres, Caramoran and Pandan – they face the Lagonoy Gulf and has calmer waves and some islands worth the visit.
Municipalities facing the barreling waves of the Pacific are Bato, San Miguel, Baras, Gigmoto and Bagamanoc.
Here are some of the stuff I did on my two-day visit at the Happy Island, that I recommend to do on your next visit:
Visit the Surf Town of Baras
Puraran Beach Resort has always been famous for the giant swells visiting its shores all year round. The sand is fine and almost creamy white, and it is dotted around with some curious rock formations at the middle of the sea that makes it more stunning.
Explore Pandan, the Last Frontier of Catanduanes
You know what’s best about visiting this quaint municipality? You have everyplace all to your self! A short hike brings you to the Cagnipa Rolling Hills, where secluded coves of Cagnipa and Muraw Beach are a sight to behold. A few flights of stairs from the pastoral hills leads to a natural lagoon called the Tuwad-Tuwadan Tidal Lagoon. Too bad that the weather was bad that day that it was not swimmable at all.
Check out the Highlands of Hiyop in Pandan
There’s also the equally amazing sweeping views of the Pandan town’s coastline from the Hiyop Highlands.
Run around the almost manicured hills of Binurong Point in Baras
A short 20 minute hike leads you to the famous cliffs of Catanduanes, the Binurong Point. There are four view points to visit, but the first one is the most picturesque. This is the highest point of the hill that stretches down to a narrow ridge battered by wild waves on both sides.
Climb the top of Bote Lighthouse in Bato
Bato, aside from the century old Bato Church, has another viewpoint that you will surely love. From the charming shores of Sakahon Beach, a 30 minute trek to the Bote Lighthouse will reward you of a bird’s eye view of the Bato coastline.
How to Get There:
- By Air:
- Cebu Pacific flies to Virac, Catanduanes 4x a week from Manila (Mon/Wed/Fri/Sunday). Flight takes an hour, departs 06:10 from Manila and arrives 07:25am in Virac
- By Land:
- From Manila (Pasay, Cubao) take a bus going directly to Tabaco in Albay. Travel time takes 11-12 hours and costs around 900php/pax
- From Tabaco, take a pedicab going to Tabaco Port.
- At Tabaco Port, take a passenger boat going to Catanduanes (4 hours travel time):
- via San Andres – 290php (aircon), 220php (non-aircon)
- via Virac – 320php (aircon), 240php (non-aircon)
- There are also fast crafts going to Virac (2 hours travel time) but trips are limited
If planning to explore the Happy Island, always avail the services of the guides since most of the destinations are tricky to go to. This trip wouldn’t be possible if not for my very accommodating guides:
Virac/Bato/Baras: Kuya Michael Tanael (0948 742 3206), Kuya Joel Tanael (0948 125 5566)
Pandan: Kuya Noel (0927 180 0840)
Chasing Catanduanes: This 2-day adventure series takes us to the pristine pastoral hills, stunning beaches and sweeping coastline views of Catanduanes. This happens to be my 64th province that I visited last December 09-10, 2019.
The Land of the Howling Winds and the Happy Island; this island facing the Pacific has been sculpted by devastating typhoons passing through here since time immemorial. This made its awesome topography truly a work of nature.
Catanduanes Adventure 2019
Taming the Land of the Howling Winds – Catanduanes
Land of the Howling Winds | Catanduanes Travel Guide 2020
Surf Town of Baras | Puraran Beach, Catanduanes
Unlocking the Last Frontier | Pandan, Catanduanes
The Mighty Hills of Binurong Point | Baras, Catanduanes
Bote Lighthouse | Bato, Catanduanes
