Viva, Vigan! – A Quick Escape at the Mestizo District of Ilocos
I still vividly remember the first time I visited Vigan in Ilocos Sur.
Time stood still as if the hands of the clock started to roll backwards into the past. Indeed, ancestral houses lined up Calle Crisologo exudes the feel of a bygone era. The sound made by the hooves of horses click-clacked along the cobblestone street where I am.
I can still say that Vigan City changed my perspective from the usual to a life filled with adventures. Six years ago, I can still recall myself taking that midnight bus alone bound for Vigan. I wandered through its streets and told myself that I will keep on coming back to this place where it all started.
The Dancing Fountains of Plaza Salcedo
Coming from Narvacan in Ilocos Sur after Paragliding at NOAH, I planned to visit Vigan City for the final leg of my Ilocos Sur solo backpacking trip.
I met with an old pal from college, JP, who then offered me a ride to Vigan City after visiting his family in Sulvec, Ilocos Sur.
Upon arrival in Vigan City, to our surprise, the whole place was really packed with people. Subsequently, we learned that it is also the start of Palarong Pambansa 2018, coinciding with the Araw ng Kagitingan (Day of Valor), the following day.
A crowd now gathered at the center of Plaza Salcedo waiting for the dancing fountain show. I squeezed in myself along with the other spectators since this is also the first time that I will be witnessing the show.
This plaza is sandwiched between the Provincial Capitol and the Vigan Cathedral. Furthermore, it now draws tourists after the old center square was turned into a fountain with a reflecting pool. Also, the ancient obelisk notwithstanding, is now replete with fountain tubes and luminary thingies.
The lighting fixtures hanging from the trees lining up the square now dimmed transforming the once lively square into a blank canvas. Then a pop song played that cut the silence in the plaza. Moreover, the obelisk was lit as lasers danced through the water jets.
Jets of water accompanied by laser and lights now danced through different popular songs. In my opinion, Mr. Bonito Singson along with the Korean fountain-head designers did a good job on this one.
Vigan Cathedral
From afar the Vigan Cathedral stood sentinel, making the whole show as surreal as it gets. The old plaza turned into something more modern. I am guessing that this is another reason to visit this UNESCO Inscribed World Heritage Site.
This is definitely a good show that one shouldn’t miss. It starts at 07:00pm and lasts for thirty minutes, and resumes again after an hour, until midnight.
Calle Crisologo
After the show, I immediately headed to Calle Crisologo. I got quite disappointed with what I saw since this is also the first time that I saw it filled with tourists like me, hordes of them!
But nevertheless, it still had not lost its old world charms just like how I laid eyes on it several times. On this fourth visit, everything still remained just the same, still euphoric.
The reason I visited this for the first time several years ago, is that I was left at home alone, bored than the usual. I got the itch to do something new since I also had the money from Christmas, so why not visit this Spanish street? I saw from several photos of it on my Facebook news feed. And, I’ve been coming here almost every year since 2014.
Still withstanding the test of time are the ancestral homes looming the street. The whitewashed walls are almost deteriorating as the paint and cement is now flaking. Capiz filled windows from the second floors were almost dilapidated. Wooden carvings depicting saints and angels with their eyes staring blankly, and other antique items being sold inside the decrepit homes. They’ve all been a silent witness to a once bustling Mestizo district.
I left after several minutes since I was famished from all the adventures I’ve done that afternoon.
The Empanadahan of Plaza Burgos
Rain poured heavily upon reaching the Empanadahan in Plaza Burgos. This pavilion is some hundred meters away from Calle Crisologo. The smell of Fried Okoys and Vigan Empanada, grilled barbecues, Mami and Arroz Caldo emanated under the canopies. Luring me to try it again for the nth time.
I couldn’t resist it anymore and bought a plate of Vigan Empanada stuffed with the garlicky Vigan Longganisa. I partnered it with a humongous piece of Okoy with Sukang Iloco (Ilocos Vinegar) on the side. I battled for the elbow room on one of its table as more people flocked the area that night.
Midnight was fast approaching, but orders kept coming on trickles that I got the chance to observe how they prepared the empanada. If there’s one reason that kept me coming back here in Vigan, then it is because of this greasy flour pockets. It’s just easy to fall in love with the food and the vinegar they use to season it with.
Simbaan a Bassit
11:00pm was fast approaching, so I packed up and immediately hailed a tricycle to take me to the Partas Bus Station. I was determined to catch the last trip of the night bound for Manila. But I made sure to stop by the Simbaan a Bassit, or that other church in Vigan. This church is much smaller than the usual, this is adjacent to a cemetery and acts as Camposanto.
I still remember the story about the statue of Apo Lakay located inside the chapel from centuries ago. It is said that locals can’t carry Apo Lakay so they just decided to build a chapel around it.
I bought a return ticket and sat at a window seat at the back of the bus. I listened to music as I watch the rain pitter-patter across the city now zooming past us. Vigan City is just another complex filled with Spanish and Chinese inspired houses, always as touristy as it gets.
But it has this certain charisma that will keep you coming back for more. Always leaving a place in your heart.
Agyamanak, Vigan! VIVA!
How To Get There
- Vigan City is at least eight (8) hours of land travel from Manila. Several bus lines serve the route including Partas, Dominion Bus, Aniceto Bus and Viron Transit directly goes to Vigan City. Fare starts at 600php.
Updated as of April 22, 2018
