Where The Gods Wage War | Biri Island, Northern Samar

November 22, 2020July 25, 2021 Rex Lim Lim allen, biri, BLOG, how to go there, ITINERARY, lavezares, magsapad, makadlaw, northern samar, TRANSIT PINAS, TRAVEL, TRAVEL GUIDE, visayas

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Biri Island in Northern Samar is a paradise that I hope only a few would know.

As the waves attempt to flee the mighty Pacific, it is the island sentinels who endures the beating. From the crashing waves, fierce storms, and movement of the tectonic plates, Biri Island referees the clash of the gods for millions of years.

These vicious duel resulted into these stunning rock formations that is a sight to behold. As they say, there’s beauty in chaos.

Perilous Journey to Paradise

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Enduring a fifteen (15) hour van ride from Manila to Matnog, Sorsogon then another two (2) hours ferry ride, we have finally set foot at the northwestern tip of Samar. From Allen Port, we then had another tricycle ride to the port of Lavezares. Then from there, we chartered a boat that took us to Biri Island for another hour. The waves along the way battered our boat that we were all soaked as we docked in the port of Biri.

Biri Island is located at the outermost portion of the Balicuatro Group of Islands. Perilous at its best, they are located where the San Bernardino Strait meets the Pacific Ocean. It is as if almost every day, the battle between the forces of nature is alive – and Biri stands in the way.

This untouched paradise is home to the most stunning rock formations we have ever seen to date. The beaches are pristine, mangrove forests are thriving, life is laid-back and the seas are abundant.

Un-BIRI-vable

After spending the night at one of the homestays in the island, we started early the following day to visit the six limestone sentinels guarding the island.

We then ventured at dawn to reach the top of the Makadlaw rock formation by sunrise. We waded through ankle deep water along the mangrove forests that we couldn’t see what was actually in store for us.

Sunrise at the northwestern tip of Samar!

Biri Island, Northern Samar — Makadlaw Crag facing the Magsapad Rock Formation

As the sun slowly ascended from the horizon, two crags as if waves about to crash, came into full view. My jaws dropped not in exaggeration, but paradise does really exist. In addition, the view from the top gave us a glimpse of the rock formations of Biri Island standing sentinel in the Pacific.

Stunning lines sculpted for millions of years point to the gargantuan Magsapad Rock. Morning drizzle subsided as the clouds drifted away, leaving a rainbow originating from the top of the limestone crag.

Magandang Bel-at

We got back at the main road and accessed the trail to the natural tidal pool. This elevated walkway is covered in dwarf mangroves as the result of a successful community based mangrove reforestation project of Philippine Tropical Forest Conservation Foundation (PTFCF). As of today, this 546-hectare project has now expanded to all the eight (8) barangays in Biri!

At the end of the mangrove beach is a white sand beach straddled in between the crags of the island.

Not too far from the Progress trail is the Bel-at Tidal Pool and the cathedral like Caranas Rock Formation. The rocks from down below was sculpted by time as the frozen lines run seamlessly along the entirety of the limestone rocks.

This shallow tidal pool rewarded us with a cool dip with this stunning vistas of landscapes. Words aren’t enough to describe how I felt that time. Moreover, Bel-at, in the local dialect refers to a woman’s genital. As the area is cradled on both sides by gigantic rock formations with the pool in the middle.

At the top of the Bel-at rock formation, one will be able to witness the Puhunan and Makadlaw Rock Formation, then the Caranas on the other side.

This elusive paradise remains as one of the most beautiful places I have seen in the country.

How to Get There

Biri Island is located at the northwestern tip of Northern Samar at the outermost edge of the Balicuatro Group of Islands

We travelled by land going to Matnog Port in Sorsogon, but one can also fly via Legaspi in Albay then continue by land to Sorsogon
Catarman Airport in Brgy. Dalakit, Catarman, Northern Samar is the closest hub to Biri Island via the Lavezares Port which is only 38kms away

Flights to Catarman as of writing is operated by Philippine Airlines
- PR2675 flies to Catarman via Clark Airport in Pampanga, flight time is 1hr and 30 minutes. Schedule of departure from Clark is 8am every Mon/Wed/Fri/Sun. Please check the availability of flights and local regulations regarding COVID19 before the flight
From Allen Port, charter a tricycle to Lavezares Port. (20-minutes travel time)
From Catarman Airport, charter a tricycle to the terminal, then transfer to another jeepney bound for Lavezares and asked to be dropped off at the port. (45 minutes travel time)

At the Lavezares Port, on a weekday when there are many passengers going to Biri, the fare if 100php. But if you are travelling in a group, it is best to rent a boat for 1200-1500php per way
Upon arrival in Biri, there are habal-habals that will take you to your accommodation of choice