The Sabah Expedition – Mt. Kinabalu 4095+ (Part II)
It was around 07:00 am and the view of the surrounding peaks of Mt. Kinabalu in all their glory was surreal. All the fatigue and aching muscles suddenly disappeared.
**This is the second part of the author’s account of their 2D1N climb to Mt. Kinabalu in Ranau, Malaysia last March 2020, days before the nationwide quarantine in the Philippines took effect.
Bahagian Kedua: Laban Rata ke Puncak Low
Part Two: Laban Rata to Low’s Peak
Laban Rata
At the Panalaban Substation, the jagged rocks at the summit was already within reach. Then at the helipad, some guides and hikers play some high altitude volleyball game during sunset. The clouds are swirling from down below as the sun setting paints the horizon in hues of orange and purple.
We can’t deny that the accommodation was more than comfortable than expected. The dinner was great as it had servings of beef, lamb, chicken, vegetables, noodles, pasta, fried rice, fruits and desserts. Drinking water is also provided at the Pendant Hut, since it comes for a fee at the Laban Rata Restaurant. The view of the clouds from the terrace while having a well deserved dinner was almost legen…wait for it… dary!
The dormitory room, albeit non-heated was warm enough for the 12C temperature that evening. Bathrooms are well equipped with running water and the toilets have a bidet and flush. Although the water heater was not operational that time, I still took a bath that night, talk about an ice bucket challenge at 3,272 meters (10,733 ft).
The thin air at the area affects people differently, I experienced a slight headache upon arrival at the Laban Rata but felt better after taking a paracetamol. Some people already felt nauseous that time.
Sayat-Sayat Checkpoint
By 08:30 pm we already tried calling it a day and went to bed. But sleep has been patchy and I don’t even remember sleeping for a full hour. By 01:00 in the morning, we were already up and prepared for the summit bid.
We had breakfast by 01:30 am and had some servings of bread, noodles and coffee. It was very cold and dark, the trek started at 03:00 am after having a quick briefing. From Laban Rata the trail continues on a series of steep wooden ladders then abruptly cut by gravel and rocky portions to clamber over. A good head lamp is essential on this part and keep a steady yet slow pace that you are comfortable with.
After an hour and a half of tiring ascent over stairs, the air was even more thinner than before, we have reached the last checkpoint along the Ranau Trail for Mt. Kinabalu, the Sayat-Sayat Checkpoint. Located at 3,810 meters (12,497 ft), this checkpoint have a strict cut off time of 05:00 am as per the Sabah Park’s regulation. Failure to reach the cut-off time and you will not be allowed to reach the summit.
I also rested here for quite a bit and tried capturing the milky way albeit the bright full moon hovering above us.
Past the Point of No Return
Way past the tree line where the last checkpoint was located, it was still pitch black dark with only our headlamps as source of light. From there, the gnarly and twisted trees suddenly disappeared and the only thing visible is the flat stretch of granite plains. Ropes are placed at strategic places and specially at some points where you have to climb over 70 degree steep surfaces.
One has to be careful of their footing because of the occasional fissures and steps. Plant life is only visible at some crevices where soil accumulated and is mainly composed of tiny shrubs of mosses, sedges, orchids and grasses that take over the landscape. The plants in here looks similar to the meadows common in temperate lands. At this point, we are now at the Sub-alpine vegetation part of the mountain, where plant life ceases to exist above 3,300 meters.
Passing the 8 km mark, I was both humbled and amazed after seeing the South Peak right before my eyes. The South Peak is the most iconic part of Mt. Kinabalu because of its pointed peak on a wave of granite plains. But it only towers at 3,921.5 meters (12,860 ft). It appears on most of the photos for Mt. Kinabalu and even at the 1 Malaysian Ringgit bill.
Then at the foot of Low’s Peak, I sat there for a bit as I waited for the others to arrive. In the cold of the breaking dawn, winds pummeled every part of me, cold enough to reach the bones. The mysterious Low’s Gully lies 1800 meters below me where a woman fell to her death years ago.
Low’s Peak
From that point it is a slow steady ascent to the Low’s Peak. The bare granite slabs stretch almost endlessly until it reaches a pile of rocks that is the highest point at 4,095 meters. Past it, the St. John’s peak (4,080 meters) appears right before the Low’s Peak.
Many claims to see a face over this peak just after sunrise, but it is explained by the phenomenon called as pareidolia, or tendency see significance from vague stimuli.
Legends say that the word Kinabalu came from the word “Cina” and “Balu” meaning Chinese Widow. It is said that a Chinese Prince exiled in Borneo fell in love with a local and they had kids. But he went back to China and was forbidden by his parents to come back, to which he followed obediently. The woman, scaled the mountain daily to wait for her husband’s ship until the day she died. The St. John’s peak is said to be the woman still waiting at the summit.
As the sun began to rise, illuminating the other summits in interesting hues, my fatigued legs from last day’s hike was taking a toll on me. I summoned every last strength to climb over the boulders, telling myself to do it slowly but surely.
Finally, after almost 4 hours, we have arrived at the highest point of Malaysia at 4,095 meters (13, 432 ft)!
It was around 07:00 am and the view of the surrounding peaks in all their glory was surreal. All the fatigue and aching muscles suddenly disappeared. The summit was very small, so taking pictures at the marker should be done fast, so we just waited for everyone to finish before doing out turn.
The Descent
Then by 07:45 am we started the descent. The way down was really beautiful, since our ascent during the morning was bleak and dark.
I got back quickly at Laban Rata rest house by 09:00 am to just rest. Please be wary of not actually taking a nap since it can actually worsen your symptoms if you have any. The rest house has a strict check-out time of 10:30 am for all climbers and failure to do so will warrant an additional 100RM on an hourly basis. The breakfast was such a relief after serving pancakes, noodles, french fries, coffee and fruits.
The descent was even more taxing, almost completing all the 11.6 kilometer trail for the day. I arrived back at Timpohon Gate by 01:19pm. Birds and Squirrels were scampering all around that most of them will come near you, checking you out if there’s any food with you.
Read more of the expedition here:
The Sabah Expedition – Gunung Kinabalu (Part I)
Mt Kinabalu Travel Guide 2020
For more information on the flora we observed in Mt. Kinabalu, you can visit this link: phylodiversity.net
Planning to climb Mt. Kinabalu? Ask us anything in the comments section below!
