Mt. Mandalagan (1,638+), Negros Occidental | In Search of the Mysterious Tinagong Dagat

August 30, 2023September 3, 2023 Rex Lim Lim

Reading Time: 9 minutes

Silay City, Negros Occidental: Mt. Mandalagan with its numerous craters and abundant wildlife is a must-visit mountain in the region. Not only for the sake of peak-bagging to complete the so-called Negros Trilogy but due to its unique features such as fumaroles and the hidden lagoon called the ‘Tinagong Dagat’.

Pahuway ta anay. (Photo by JM Tantoco, IG: @jmtntco)

Join us in this adventure as we hike up to the crown jewel of Northern Negros!

Group Photo at Silay City (Photo by Khael Ungos)

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Table of Contents

MT. MANDALAGAN
Silay City, Negros Occidental
Major jump-off: ‘Hospital’, Brgy. Patag, Silay City
Alternate jump-off: Sitio Campuestohan, Brgy. Cabatangan, Talisay
LLA: 1683 MASL (MP); 1450 MASL (TD)
Hours to destination / Days required: 4-6h (MP), 3-5h (TD) / 1-3d
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 4/9 (TD), 7/9 (all), Trail class 1-4
Features: Sulfur vents, crater lakes, tropical rainforest
Article history: Created August 21, 2012
(www.pinoymountaineer.com)

Merrell Speed Eco

In this hike, I was using the new Merrell Speed Eco. The waterproofing feature kept the water out as we passed through marshes while being breathable enough to let moisture escape. #LetsGetAway #GetawayToAdventure

Campuestuhan Trail

Our group assembled at Silay City after spending the night at one of the pension houses in the heritage city.

From Silay, it took us around an hour to reach the NNNP Ranger Station in Brgy. Cabatangan (730MASL). In addition, this is the location of the tourist spot called Campuestuhan Highlands.

After meeting with our guides and some final preparations, we immediately started the hike.

The trail was wide and had some houses for a few hundred meters. A few minutes later, the trail was muddy and had numerous tree roots and rocks all throughout.

Water sources were not an issue since we were already hiking for two hours through numerous springs that eventually ended in the dam area (967MASL).

Mt. Mandalagan does not only make up the so-called Negros Trilogy along with Mt. Talinis and Mt. Kanlaon. More importantly, it is the heart of the Northern Negros Natural Park (NNNP) and home to old-growth forest that houses endemic flora and fauna. That is why this area is highly protected.

The Search for the Hidden Lagoon

As the trail started to get steeper and the forest foliage got even thicker, so was the number of Limatiks (Blood-sucking Leeches) waiting underneath the leaves and grasses. Be careful not to get one inside your eyes on your next hike!

Inside the mossy forest of Mt. Mandalagan, it got more challenging as rock walls presented themselves after sharp ascent on roots and narrow footholds.

Aside from the occasional howling wind and chirping of birds, the sound of gushing water was all that we heard as we soldiered on.

After almost four hours on the trail at exactly 1,500 meters above sea level, we started the descent into a sheer ravine that ended in a marshland. From that point on, Tinagong Dagat is now within our reach!

How lucky we are to visit the lagoon filled with water. It is said to be weather-dependent. Moreover, during the summer it gets all dried up and it can actually accommodate hundreds of tents, but the image of it gives me goosebumps.

Crown Jewel of Northern Negros

Mt. Mandalagan is said to be a potentially active complex volcano. In addition, there are a number of craters and fumaroles that still exhibit volcanic activities.

The largest of which is the 2-kilometer wide plateau which is said to be the main crater and called by many as the Tinagong Dagat. The name translates to ‘Hidden Sea’ which locals have likened to the marine activity of the area which is subjected to the ebb and flow of the water in the lagoon.

But in fact, during the rainy season, just like in this hike, the plateau was filled with water and our campsite was only limited to the banks of the caldera.

Breakfast is served! (Photo by Khael Ungos)

Rising at about 1450 MASL, the Tinagong Dagat is the main destination on a regular 2-day trek going up to Mt. Mandalagan.

Peace and Stillness

Also, if you extend your stay, you can still visit the Marapara Peak (1683 MASL) and the Solfatara, two hours away, which has active fumaroles that can send up plumes as high as 30 meters.

Camping here will give you all the peace that you’ve been yearning for. We also heard a number of cat growls around midnight while the others were all fast asleep.

Starry, starry night. (Photo by JM Tantoco IG: @jmtntco)

Dinner: Bistek Taglog, Dinakdakan, Pinakbet, Pork Binagoongan, Chicken Sinampalukan

The following day, we used the traversing trail that leads to Brgy. Patag in Silay City. The monkey trail here was more challenging than that of the Campuestuhan trail but the Almaciga Trees are truly a delight to see!

One thing I can commend here is how clean the trail was, there’s no sign of litter, vandalism, or any kind of man-made structures.

Onwards to the next!

How to Get There

Mt. Mandalagan is located inside the Northern Negros Natural Park in the province of Negros Occidental.

From Manila, book any flight bound for New Bacolod-Silay Airport.
Upon arrival in Bacolod, transfer to vans bound for Silay City and meet up with your guides.

On this climb, our entry point is at Campuestuhan Trail, while the exit point is at Patag Trail. So we chartered a jeep for our transfers before and after the climb.
There are three trails to access the mountain which all pass by Tinagong Dagat (from NNNP Memorandum dated August 01, 2022). These trails are shuffled every week by the NNNP Office, so trail availability is subject to the schedule imposed by the office.
- Campuestuhan – Brgy. Cabatangan, Talisay City
- Patag – Brgy. Patag, Silay City
- Canlandog – Brgy. Canlandog, Murcia
Water at Tinagong Dagat is dependent on the weather conditions. During the summer, the caldera is all dried up and can be used as a camping site.

There are lots of water sources along the trail. But the use of soap and other toiletries is not allowed.
Limatiks or Blood-leeches are present all throughout the trail so wear appropriate clothing.
Data is not available at the campsite but coverage for Smart/Talk and Text is intermittent at the campsite and some peaks along the trail.

Registration and Requirements

Booking: Submit the booking form two (2) weeks prior to the target schedule of the climb to nnnp.penronegros@gmail.com. A maximum of 15 persons per group and 30 climbers per week are allowed to climb every week. You can also contact them through their Facebook page: Northern Negros Natural Park.

Requirements: It is quite a list of requirements which should be submitted one (1) week prior to the climb:

Individual Information Form
Individual Waiver (Notarized) with 1 Documentary Stamp (30php)
Individual Medical Certificate
Trek Orientation Certificate of Completion (which you can get by answering the online quiz which will be given upon submission of the booking form)
Zero Waste Commitment Form (To be submitted after the orientation, all plastic stuff you bring will be counted and listed down)

Fees:

Mountaineering Permit: 300php (Locals), 500php (Foreigners)
Guide and Porter Fee (Mandatory: 1 Guide and 1 Porter for every 5 persons): Guide – 750php/day, Porter – 750php/day

Itinerary and Expenses

Mt. Mandalagan (1,638+)
Tinagong Dagat: Campuestuhan-Patag Traverse

Day 0

1030 Flight to Bacolod
1130 Arrival at Bacolod Silay Airport, van to Silay City 100
1200 Baldevia Pension 1100php/2pax

Day 01

0730 Depart for Mt. Mandalagan – Campuestuhan Jumpoff
0840 Arrival at Ranger Station, Brgy. Cabatangan, Talisay City (730MASL)
1010 Rest Area (904MASL)
1045 Dam 967MASL
1140 Rest Area 1220 MASL
1300 Start descent to Tinagong Dagat (1500MASL)
1315 Tinagong Dagat Campsite (1450MASL), Set Camp
1900 Dinner, Socials
2130 Lights Off

Day 02

0915 Start Descent via Patag
0950 Junction Marapara Peak, Ridge Top (1488MASL)
1105 Diwal (1270MASL)
1140 Platform 2 (980MASL)
1230 Patag Jumpoff (800MASL), tidy up
1430 Depart for Silay City
1630 Silay City, visit heritage houses
1830 Grab to Ruins, Talisay City (500php)
1900 The Ruins, 150php
2300 Flight back to Manila

**This DIY climb was organized by Rochelle Guelos of Ilocanang Gala together with Khael Ungos. Expenses were around 2500php (for 14pax) for the food, transportation, entrance, registration, guide, and porter fees for the whole duration of the climb.