Naga’s Last Refuge – Mt. Isarog (1966+), Camarines Sur
Mt. Isarog is located at the geographic center of the Camarines Sur, lies the last tropical rain forest of the Bicol Region.
MT. ISAROG (VIA PANICUASON TRAIL)
Naga City, Camarines Sur
Major jump-off: Brgy. Panicuason, Naga City
LLA: 13°40′ N, 123°21′ E, 1966 MASL
Days requires / Hours to summit: 2 days / 8-10 hours
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 5/9, Trail class 3
(www.pinoymountaineer.com)
Naga’s Solitary Giant
Standing at 1966 meters above sea level, this is a potentially active stratovolcano at the northwest of the Bicol Peninsula.
A biodiversity like no other, it is dubbed as the Vulcan De Agua. Its last eruption was in 1641 and it supplies clean potable water to 15 of 31 municipalities through its 16 major river systems. Any Bicolandia trip wouldn’t be complete without having a glimpse of this solitary giant.
But what lies inside its crater is the question. There are numerous posts of how the volcanic crater looks like. That’s what made us more curious to explore it up to the summit and see it before our own eyes.
Malabsay Falls
After our visit at the Mercedes Islands in Camarines Norte, we traveled for two hours to reach Naga City. Upon arrival in Naga around 1:00pm, we had a final supply run and also had our lunch. Panicuason and Carolina bound jeeps are found at the public market near the Oragon Statue landmark.
Since the Panicuason jeeps will be leaving after an hour, we took the Carolina bound jeep that fills up faster than the latter (20php/pax). The trip took 15 minutes and upon arrival we transferred to habal-habal motorcycles (70php/pax). They took us directly to the jump-off point at the foot of Mt. Isarog.
There was a registration booth at the entrance gate. But since it was a holy week, a lot of people have been visiting the Malabsay Falls.
We first paid 210php/pax for the registration. While waiting for our guide (550php/day/5pax), we visited Malabsay Falls which is around 300 steps going down the catch basin.
This is one of the many waterfalls in the vicinity of the Mt. Isarog Natural Park. Malabsay Falls exudes a lot of power as its water gushes down from a hundred feet down to its catch basin.
Its roar is even heard from the entrance gate. The falls is a refreshing side trip before or after the ascent of Mt. Isarog.
The Tales of the Banayad
Panicuason Trail is the most commonly taken route by hikers. But aside from this, there is also the Patag-Patag Trail that starts in Consocep Base Camp in Tigaon, Camarines Sur. Canyoning is also becoming a Mt. Isarog staple, numerous waterfalls, sulfur springs, hot springs as well as Japanese tunnels are sights to behold in this mountain.
By 3:00pm we started our trek. The trail to Camp 1 was a gradual ascent through the tropical jungle. Nabontolan Falls which is an hour away from Camp 1 can also be a rewarding side trip. We reached Camp 1 after an hour and a half. With full packs, and increasing inclination, we continued.
The trail leading to Camp 2 through its verdant montane forest is made up of mostly assaults. Our guide said that somewhere between Camps 2 and 3 is where the “Banayad” trail is.
Around 5:30pm we have reached Camp 2, an hour after the 1st camp. But, the trail going to Camp 3 now involves some scrambling before rocks and tree roots and even steeper assaults than the first two camps. We were on all fours, our back packs weighed a little heavier as we moved on.
It continued for an hour until we reached Camp 3 by 6:30pm. The sun had finally set into the horizon and the night finally settled in. We decided to spend the night at Camp 3, and commence for an early morning assault the following day.
The campsite doesn’t have enough space for tents. Still no sign of the Banayad (read: Susmaryosep). After having our dinner, we immediately slept and as the night got deeper, the temperature dropped like crazy and by 3:00am the following day, we got up and prepared for the steep assault to the crater view deck.
Into The Montane Forest
We resumed by 3:30am, the surrounding was still pitch black. The fog crept slowly through the woods and sounds of the nocturnal animals are all around. We reached Camp 4 by 4:00am and the environment shifted from the normal verdant forest to the mossy paradise Isarog is known for.
Another interesting sight is that almost 1300 species of flora and 150+ species of fauna including endemic ones are found here. Orchids hang everywhere by the hardwood trees thick in moss, liverworts and epiphytes.
It is home to a number of endemic species including 15 species of birds, frogs and rodents such as the Isarog Shrew rat (Rhynchomys isarogensis). In addition, it is also home to the Mt. Isarog Forest Skink (Sphenomorphus knollmanae) that occurs nowhere else in the world.
Vulcan De Agua
After several head blows from tree branches and a few slips from mossy trunks, we have reached Camp 5. This is also known as the crater view deck of Mt. Isarog! A total of 5.5 hours, and it was 5:30am and there was nothing to see.
Most of the mountaineers we encountered on the trail said that there was no clearing that day. Even our guides told us that with the way the weather is that day, there is a little chance that the crater will appear.
After an hour, still no hint of clouds waking up from their deep slumber. But, as we are about to descend back to the campsite, the unexpected happened that made us froze from our awkward positions.
The dome at the center of the crater started to show up. The clouds slowly dissipated above the ridges of the caldera. This 1,966 meter high andesitic stratovolcano is truncated by a 2.5 km-wide crater.
This is breached to the east along a narrow valley drained by the Quinarag River.
The crater was teeming with life, as it surrounds the dome at the center. It looks like a little mountain inside a larger one. Mt. Mayon, rises formidably in the south, with Mt. Masaraga and Mt. Malinao in the foreground.
The Bicol peninsula, Aguirangan Island, Lagonoy Gulf and the surrounding towns of Camarines Sur are also seen.
Mt. Isarog got its name from a group of indigenous people called the Isarog Agta.
The Descent
But all good things must come to an end, it was brief 15 minute encounter with the hidden gem of Mt. Isarog.
The clouds again slowly swooped down from the ridges down to the bottom. We then played monkeys as we tried to reach the highest branches of the trees to take a good look of Naga City.
We got back to our campsite after an hour from Camp 5, then had breakfast before the long descent to the main gate.
Dozed off a little before we broke camp, and by 11:00am, we started out trek down. The trail was more amazing as the bright sun illuminated the highest boughs of the trees. We reached the jump-off point by 12:30pm.
Travel Guide Here:
Mt. Isarog, Camarines Sur | Travel Guide
Updated February 10, 2018
