Callao Cave – Cagayan’s Chambers of Light and Darkness
The province of Cagayan, when mentioned at any given moment, the first thing that comes into every traveler’s mind is Palaui Island. Also, there’s the Cape Engaño, Pansit Batil Patung, and also one should never forget the Callao Cave.
Detour to Peñablanca
I was just a stone throw away from Tuguegarao City that afternoon, since I spent my morning in the province of Isabela. Furthermore, the last on my list was the church ruins of San Pablo which was just a couple of minutes away from Tumauini Church.
But a van stopped in front of me, the driver immediately howled “TUGE!! TUGE!!”. Torn as I was, I weighed in if I will continue to visit the last church or head to Tuguegarao City? I made a quick decision – which is to visit Callao Caves in Peñablanca. Detour it is!
I saw the looming bell tower of San Pablo Church from afar, as we passed swiftly along the national highway (sigh). The sweltering heat was felt inside the van as if it had no air-conditioning.
I hopped out of the van and asked the locals where I could hire a tricycle that will take me to Callao (pronounced as “kal-law”). The tricycles there are color coded depending on which area they service. Then as I was pointed to the yellow ones, I haggled for the price and got mine for 450php since I was traveling alone.
It took us roughly an hour through the 24 kilometer road leading down to the banks of Pinacanauan River.
A long wooded boat awaited me after I paid for the entrance fee of 20php and paid another 20php for the back and forth boat ride. Pinacanauan River, means clearest in the native “Itawes” dialect. Our boat traversed the gap which separates the cave from the main land via the major tributary of the Cagayan River.
As I arrived, Joy, one of the student guides approached me, and allowed me to leave my bag at the tourist lounge. Then we immediately started the 184 steps staircase leading to the awning mouth of the cave. I was kinda breathless after that, but lo and behold.
Cave Chapel
Callao Cave is one of the 300 caves dotting the Peñablanca Protected Landscape and Seascape. It covers some 118,781.58 hectares, in which the most premiere and accessible cave – the Callao Cave. This cave is so massive that it covers two barangays which is Quibal and Magdalo.
Peñablanca got its name from Spanish origins which means “White Rocks”; because of the white limestone walls of the mountains surrounding the area. Callao on the other hand is from the word “Callado” which means calm.
Callao and the other caves are situated in the western foothills of the Northern Sierra Madre Mountains of the Philippines. They are situated within the Peñablanca Protected Landscape and Seascape, which stretches from the caves to the eastern shores of Peñablanca town of the Pacific Ocean. – wikipedia.org
It has a total of nine chambers, seven of which can be explored by visitors. Its remaining two chambers were closed off by by the Cagayan earthquake of 1980. The mouth of the cave loomed in front of me after reaching the last flight of stairs. I was just awestruck upon entering and witnessing the most sought after Cave Chapel of Callao.
The first chamber of the show cave is the largest room from the seven accessible ones. The cathedral-like room has been turned into a chapel by the local people. Moreover, a mass is held inside weekly and a wedding also took place in here last 2017.
A rock formation serves as the altar of the chapel lit by a stream of light coming from a rooftop crevice. This large opening beams down natural illumination to the area giving it a range of ambient light from bright to gloomy.
Then theres the wooden pews facing the main altar which is a rock formation similar to a church retablo. The conditions inside the caves have caused the formation of stalactites and stalagmites, more so in the deeper chambers.
Gargantuan, Ginormous
The room mas massive, no, gargantuan. As I walked inside, with Joy describing each unique rock formations along the several other chambers, I was even more wrong, the other chambers were actually even more ginormous.
The natural skylights had caused vegetation along the speleothems. There’s flowstones, dripstones, columns and similar ones which have varying colors.
Do not fear walking inside as the pathways are well maintained. The path is not even challenging compared to the other caves like that of Sumaguing Cave in Sagada, Mountain Province.
Enrile’s Long Lost Brother?
The sunset is fast approaching as I was about to exit the cave. But then, heavy rain poured from above that stopped us from descending. It gave me more time to go around the now gloomy and dank first chamber of Callao. Then I had the time to read the tarpaulin that showcases the archaeological digging near the mouth of the cave.
Interesting fact is within the cave complex, one fossilized remain found in the year 2007 has changed the course of human history.
The Metatarsal of the Callao Man found here antedates the Tabon Man in Palawan. It was as old as 67,000 years old, an even more older homo sapien ancestor that is believed to be anout 4-feet tall. Enrile is shaking.
Truly, Callao Cave lives up to its name, and definitely a must visit in the province of Cagayan. If one is seeking for more adventures, they can also check out the Odessa-Tumbali Cave. In addition, there’s the Abbenditan Cave which is said to be the longest in the country at 12.6-15kms long.
I got back at Tuguegarao City by 06:00 in the evening and had my dinner before checking in at one of the cheap hotels nearby the city center before calling it a night.
Next on Byahe Norte Solo Adventure 2018: Apayao Province!
How To Get There
- Several bus companies travels directly to Tuguegarao City in the province of Cagayan daily, night trips are usually the norm. (Travel time: 12hrs, Fare: 650++ for regular air-conditioned bus)
- Check this bus companies and their schedules:
- Victory Liner – Cubao, Quezon City
- GV Florida Transport – Sampaloc, Manila
- Baliwag Transit – Cubao, Quezon City
- Check this bus companies and their schedules:
- Alternately, Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines flies directly to Tuguegarao City regularly. (Flight time: 1:05)
- From the city center , take any tricycle and ask to be dropped off at the tricycle terminal that is located at the back of Tuguegarao Cathedral which has trips to Penablanca. (20php/trip)
- Hire a tricycle to Callao Cave at Penablanca and prices usually starts at 1000php for a group of 3-4 persons, but you can haggle it down to 600-450php if traveling solo or in pair. Do not try to lower it down as the trip takes an hour to reach the river banks of Pinacanauan River, also consider their waiting time.
Already visited this northern gem ? How was the experience? Share your thoughts in the comments sections below!
Updated as of July 03, 2018
