Ha Giang’s Ethnic Rendezvous: Dong Van Sunday Market

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PART 3: Northern Vietnam Adventure Series
Route 3: Sky Journey To Pride and Happiness

The air felt so alive as I waded through the crowd of people that seemed to congregate inside the tent covered market. The Sunday morning air beckoned ethnic groups living roughly a few to more than ten kilometer radius from Dong Van Town, inside the UNESCO inscribed Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark, it was definitely the most alive, a rather kaleidoscopic, market I’ve ever seen to date.

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Sunday Market of Dong Van

The sweet stench of rice and corn wine  permeated the air, as some of the men sat, played cards while catching up and getting drunk on an early morning breakfast.

We waded through the crowd then entered the canopied area to have our breakfast. Steam billowed through the air as broth for the Pho noodles were prepared by the locals, we sat down but still, our eyes were fixed on the colorful scene among us and we were completely strangers in this foreign land.

Before we knew it, the Rice Noodles with chunks of chicken meat were right before us were served, and yes, it was one of the best I tried on this brief stay. I underestimated the chili and added a heaping teaspoon that later set my face on fire.

Returning back to the market aisles, a lot of products are sold, most of them are peculiar, I even chanced upon dried tiger claws, turtles, and other prohibited animals that are either sold for their medicinal purposes.

You can buy a lot in this kind of ethnic market, from fresh produce, jewelry, textiles, decorative accessories, animals (buffaloes, pigs, goat, dogs etc..) and chance upon some local dishes like fried glutinous rice, barbecue to name a few.

Ethnic markets are held in least accessible places, mountainous regions at the least that is near the Chinese border, like this one in Dong Van town. This is a once a week affair where residents of ethnic minorities come down from villages and towns to buy supplies and sell their products.

Most of these markets start early in the morning, residents usually come more early or even a day before aboard their motorcycles, some arrive with their horses or ponies.

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Kaleidoscopic Rendezvous

This opportunity to witness such a unique event is not just a mundane thing locals do, but rather a centuries old tradition that has kept the ties of the ethnic minorities together for generations.

For an area with a high concentration of ethnic minorities, 80% of the population in Ha Giang to be exact, it is incredibly important to maintain friendly social relations. This is evident with the rowdy drinking sessions with the men, and the loud discussion, bargaining and gossiping with the women.

With this once a week affair, I observed that women often come in their most beautiful attire, their signature head scarf, vests, skirts and decorative accessories and jewelries such as dangling earpieces are easily observed. And when they all come together, it is rather kaleidoscopic, given all the colors in this colorful rendezvous.

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Difficult Roads: Great Destinations

Mainly, these markets like this one in Dong Van’s main reason for staging this is for locals to earn an income. For a remote location, this is their only opportunity to sell their products and one of the only circumstances to earn some money. For travelers like us, it is one of those rare occasions where you can buy original products at very affordable prices, where one can help some of the poorest ethnic minorities directly.

As they say difficult roads often lead to great destinations, this rather unique experience requires one to travel to Ha Giang City, around 300kms from Hanoi, then a day or two travel through dangerous and steep mountain passes of Ha Giang Province until; one reaches the largest town near the border of Vietnam and China. This is definitely a genuine experience in our Ha Giang Loop Adventure that immersed us into the roots of  Vietnam culture.

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Ethnic Markets of Vietnam

I have observed that most, if not all, ethnic markets in Vietnam are located in the northernmost portions, mostly near the mountainous regions not too far from the Chinese border. Some of the colorful congregations are listed below, all sourced from ethosspirit.com

 Sin In Ho Market

• A small town in the province of Lai Chau (from the Lai Chau town approximately 70 km)
• Sin Ho market is held every Saturday and Sunday (Sunday is busier)
• Large and less frequented by tourists
• Food, household goods, textiles, but also technological equipment
• Ethnic minorities – Black Dao and Red Hmong.

Sapa Market

• Host to the best range of traditional textiles of any market in all of Vietnam
• More frequented by tourists and therefore less authentic than some.
• Ethnic minorities – Hmong, Dao, Giay and Tay

Meo Vac Market

• Similar market as the Sunday market in Dong Van
• Also known as “cattle” market, people here brings buffalo, cows, goats for sale
• The road leads from Dong Van town over the spectacular Ma Pi Leng mountain pass
• Ethnic minorities – Hmong, Dao, Lo Lo 

Quan Ba Market

• Sunday market in the province of Ha Giang, Tam Son town centre, Quan Ba District
• the biggest ethnic market in the area
• practically everything (animals, food, textiles and other items)
• several ethnic minorities and Vietnamese residents

Yen Minh Market

• Sunday market in the centre of Yen Minh
• The biggest ethnic market in the area and several ethnic minorities
• Practically everything (animals, food, textiles and other items)
• Some specialities: wine, agricultural products, herbs, fruits, vegetables