Buscalan Travel Guide 2023 | Revisiting Apo Whang-od

April 15, 2023April 27, 2023 Rex Lim Lim 2023, ADVENTURE, BLOG, BUDGET, GUIDE, HOW TO, ITINERARY

Reading Time: 7 minutes

(Updated April 15, 2023)

Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga: The story of Apo Whang-od is not just about her traditional tattooing techniques, but also about her rich cultural heritage and the preservation of Kalinga culture.

In this adventure, I revisited the Buscalan Tattoo Village to visit Apo Whang-od once again and see how much the village has changed since my last visit in 2017.

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Table of Contents

Vogue Philippines: Next of Skin

Recently, Apo Whang-od was featured on the cover of Vogue Philippines which gained a lot of traction online as one of the oldest people featured in the magazine. Moreover, this would be a significant recognition of her contribution to Filipino culture and a celebration of her inspiring story.

Apo Whang-Od gracing the April issue of Vogue Philippines

Nonetheless, her inspiring journey and cultural significance make her a worthy subject for any publication looking to celebrate the beauty of Philippine culture.

But we are now indelibly inked and linked to the last Philippine tribe that has managed to hold on to its tattooing heritage amid colonial erasure in the rest of the archipelago. And we carry these markings with us forward into the world, allowing ourselves the gifts of guidance, strength, and protection that we didn’t realize we needed. – Audrey Carpio, Vogue Philippines

Tattoo Guide

Apo Whang-od is a traditional Kalinga tattoo artist, and getting a tattoo from her is a unique experience. Make sure to respect her and her culture by following the proper etiquette when getting a tattoo. You can also get a tattoo from her grandniece, Grace Palicas, who is also a skilled tattoo artist.

It’s worth noting that the cost of the tattoo may vary depending on its design, size, and complexity. Additionally, other factors such as the season and demand may also affect the pricing.

You may contact Ate Emily Oggay, the tattoo artist who added the arrow tattoos on my left arm.

For the 8 arrowheads I added, it costs 600php for the 15-minute session.

For the Sun and Moon, it costs 3000php

For the Fern Arm Band (Nilawhat), it costs 3600php

As of April 2023:
- The Pomelo thorn and handle called “Pambatok” is now required and costs 200php.

- Apo Whang-od’s signature three dots now cost 300php.

Overall, visiting Apo Whang Od in Buscalan is a unique and unforgettable experience. Just remember to be respectful, follow the local customs, and enjoy the beautiful scenery and culture of the Kalinga people.

How to Get There

If you’re planning to visit Apo Whang-od in Buscalan in 2023, here’s a travel guide to help you prepare for your trip:

The nearest major airport to Buscalan is Tuguegarao International Airport, which is around 138 kilometers away. From there, you can take a bus or a van to Bontoc, then alight at Buscalan Saddle Point where you can hire a motorcycle to the Buscalan jump-off point.

Alternatively, take a bus or van to Tabuk City, Kalinga then transfer to another one going to Bontoc, Mountain Province, then alight at Saddle Point.
At the jump-off point, register and hire a guide for 500php/group per day for multiday visits, or 1000php for day tours

Where to Stay

There are several homestays in Buscalan where you can stay. You can also choose to camp if you prefer. Book your accommodation in advance, especially if you’re visiting during peak season.

The accommodation cost can range from PHP 250 to PHP 500 per night, depending on the type of accommodation and the season. If you prefer to camp, you can rent a tent for around PHP 100 to PHP 150 per night.
- We stayed at Tatay Gaspar’s Homestay for 400php a night and shared bathroom which also comes with free unli coffee. This is also the only homestay with Piso WiFi and the nearest to the rice terraces.

Tips

What to bring: The weather in Buscalan can be unpredictable, so make sure to bring warm clothing and rain gear. You’ll also need comfortable hiking shoes, as the trek to Buscalan can be challenging. Bring cash, as there are no ATMs in Buscalan.

Respect the community: Buscalan is a small community, so it’s important to be respectful of the locals and their culture. Ask for permission before taking photos of people, and don’t litter or damage any property.
There are two trails to choose from:

- Old Trail which is mostly flat then gradually gets steep as you get closer to the village. Trail Length +/- 2 kilometers, 139m elevation gain

- New Trail, this trail goes all the way down to the river then a steep assault to the village. 1.35 kilometers trail length, 170m elevation gain

Plan your itinerary: Buscalan is a small village, but there are other nearby attractions that you can visit, such as the Kalinga Museum and the Tinglayan Rice Terraces. Plan your itinerary in advance to make the most of your trip.

With this trip, I joined an organized tour by PH Explore Happiness group together with this happy bunch. Meals prepared by Sir Intoy were top-notch!

- You may contact them through their Facebook Pages for their upcoming tour schedules
  - Raine Evngelista – Facebook Page
  - Intoy Laboy – Facebook Page
    - Telegram: 0909 9282200
    - 𝑺𝑴𝑨𝑹𝑻 : 0909 9282200
    - Viber: Paul Carandang 09099282200

Merrell Speed Eco

In this quick hike up to the village of Buscalan, I used the new Merrell Speed Eco shoes. The Merrell Speed Eco is one of the most sustainable shoes to date. Also, it is designed for trail running and other light outdoor activities.

It is comfortable to use right out of the box, with a good amount of cushioning and support. The shoes are also designed with breathable mesh uppers that help keep feet cool and dry during activity.