Tradition of the Buscalan Tattoo | The People of the Mist

January 29, 2019August 4, 2021 Rex Lim Lim

Reading Time: 5 minutes

The Buscalan, Kalinga Adventure Series Part II

Getting that Buscalan Tattoo was never easy, sixteen hours of land travel from Manila, couple it with an hour of strenuous hike to reach the village. But to be part of hundreds of years of tradition and meeting Whang-od is already an experience on itself.

We went inside the maze-like pathway before arriving at a concrete house painted in hues of sky blue. We then heard the faint tapping of wood on wood in a timely manner, a sound that keeps reverberating days after this brief encounter.

The Embodiment of the Kalinga Culture

Table of Contents

There she was, crouched in a corner holding two wooden stick. Moreover, the left stick was an inch long with a grapefruit thorn drenched in black ink. To add, the right one, was almost halfway black from the repeated application of ink from her wrinkly hands.

Apo Whang-od was almost gentle in tapping those thorns into the skin. The thorn sank deeply into the skin at most times as she continues in tapping once more after applying liquid charcoal from time to time.

With each tap puncturing the skin, a river of blood began trickling down his guest’s leg. Her face is almost as obscure and as serious as her art is, then fifteen minutes passed by, the tattoo has finally come to life.

After a few minutes his arm is now dripping in a mixture of blood, sweat and liquid charcoal. She then used a new set of wet wipes to take away the excess mixture from the skin.

Then for the final touch, she applied three small dots alongside the tattoo and started tapping the thorn deep into the skin once again. The thorn gets caught up with the skin after each tap, I noticed the guest wincing in a silent whimper of pain.

Apo Whang-od’s smile is as charming and lively as her personality is. The tattoos around her body still emanates even if it is hidden under a garb of cotton sweater. Also, her trinkets are composed of priceless pieces of beads.

After a photo-op with the Australian National, she puts her hand on the unsuspecting guest’s crotch and flashes that mischiveous grin! Still naughty eh? Then she graciously receives another guest, smiling amidst doing it since eight in the morning. In fact, she has done the routine for the last seventy years.

To see her in person was both an honor and an experience. I was planning NOT to have a tattoo and seeing her was more than enough, but I eventually gave in as the opportunity presented itself.

More of the buscalan tattoo guide here. (Read: Buscalan, Kalinga Budget Travel Guide)

The Art of Pambabatok

Whang-od is the last Mambabatok to apply the Buscalan tattoo as a sign of victory to those who has practiced head hunting. She has done this since she was fifteen after she learned the art from her father.

Tattooing has long been regarded as a visual proof of the native’s martial exploits that signifies special privileges and lifelong respect from the community.

“Tattooing is a ritual and serious religious experience. The spirits expect Fanah to act bravely. If he doesn’t, they’ll inflict death and destruction on the community.” – Apo Whang-od, Larskrutak.com

Head hunting also has a religious affliction among the tribal affiliations. Consequently, it is said to be the highest form of sacrifice to appease Kabunian, the God of Kalinga. Often than not, head hunting used to take in forms of raids called Lipot.

But during times of tribal war, villages are raided and victims could be a child, a woman, or an elderly.

The head is decapitated from the body, leaving the body for the enjoyment of dogs and other jungle animals.

But the victim is much valued alive when brought back to the village. Furthermore, a ritual is performed before his head is severed from the body. In addition, the Mandadawak or shaman severs the head and chants songs before the victory celebration.

These practice came from the idea that once their gods are appeased, famine and sickness will not inflict them. Moreover, harvest would be plenty, and thus, the general welfare of the village is conserved. This practice is carried on a regular basis.

Afterwards, the Mambabatok steps in to reward the heroes with their tattoos.

A grapefruit thorn that is used in tattooing is believed to drive away evil spirits because of its strong smell. Spirits are said to be attracted by the smell of blood. Right after the session, the thorn used is given to the person to lay it outside of their house for protection.

The Moment of Truth

It was my turn to have her signature first. Whang-od smiled in a reserved manner, then spoke in Butbut Kalinga to our guide asking where to put the signature.

I was expecting the tattoo to be painful but as soon as she started tapping, all the worries went away. After less than a hundred of taps and an occasional sting in the left arm, she gave me a heads up telling me that the signature is done. I never expected it to be that fast!

Coming up! The People of the Mist: A Day in the Life of Butbut Kalinga Tribe

Big thanks to Team Lakbay Ahon for arranging and organizing this two-day transit and to Ms. Ghie Maldeguia for turning this team of strangers into friends afterwards. #TeamDalandan